We recently released a "shirt" and a "skirt." We would like to share with you some behind-the-scenes stories and twists and turns that went into their production.
Many people tried on the clothes at the POPUP events in Zushi and Ebisu, and I'm relieved to see that they turned out so beautifully. (Thank you so much for letting me take so many photos!)
The sleeves of the shirt are three-quarter length, but they look great when rolled up! This is the "Kanna Pattern_Love" shirt .
The set was also cute! A starfruit pattern shirt (tree pattern) and a long skirt . It would also look good with sneakers! (Height 163cm)
1. It all started with my encounter with fabric
The initial trigger was a suggestion from Mr. Fmoto, who I always consult with about dyeing and fabrics, to order a fabric called "cotton lawn."
This fabric is made from 100% thin cotton, with a plain weave made from thin, loosely woven threads. It's thin and light, yet has just the right amount of firmness and stiffness. It's also sheer, yet smooth to the touch.
"It's thin but has a nice firmness and bounce. It feels great!"
It would be great to make a shirt or skirt out of this fabric, but I was confused as to what pattern and color would be best... I let my imagination run wild.
Because the clothes are aimed at adult women, I think it's important that they're not only soft, light, and comfortable to the touch, but also that they have a firmness that flatters the body line and keeps just the right distance from the body.
⬆︎Which pattern and color should I get? I have such a hard time deciding every time.
2. Deciding on the shape
I was able to quickly come up with a rough idea of the shape I wanted to make, but to make it more concrete I had to decide on the size and shape in detail.
I drew the picture while imagining and fantasizing, "What would happen if I did this here?"
The skirt has a gathered silhouette that flows lightly. Too much gathering makes it look childish, and too little makes it look fluffy. How much gathering is best?
●The shirt has a good balance of ease of movement and a neat look! It can also be worn as a light jacket, making it a great piece to wear right through to autumn (or even all year round).
●The fabric is sheer, so the skirt probably needs a lining.
⬆︎ Various gathering conditions. In reality, it will be completely different depending on the fabric, so you won't know until you try it!
3. The biggest challenge: finding a sewing company
The next step is finding a sewing company, which is the most difficult part of making AMONG clothes.
The sewing company that we had been using to make our clothes had always been very accommodating, and they would always give us detailed advice on each project. However, with the number of craftsmen decreasing, it was becoming difficult to handle AMONG's complex requests.
It's already mid-April, and of course the fabric hasn't been dyed yet. What's more, this time I'm hoping to have it finished by early summer.
"I want to find a sewing company I can hire..."
I approached dozens of companies, but received almost no response.
When we did get a response, it was along the lines of, "The number is too small to handle."
That's right, it's complicated, but there aren't many. There's one (or two) zeros missing from the order quantity!!
As you may know, AMONG uses original fabrics with patterns that are oriented in different directions, and the motif changes on half of the fabric, making cutting complicated.
It is difficult to get people to accept it because the amount is small and it is a lot of work.
⬆︎I made this document to explain the direction of the pattern. Also, the actual color will be different from this. Sorry if it's really hard to understand!
4. A Miraculous Encounter
In the midst of all this, I received an incredibly polite reply from a sewing company (a miracle!).
We first met face-to-face via Zoom, then we continued to communicate via LINE and phone, and finally we were able to ask them to do the sewing.
When I actually visited, the president said the following to me:
"I don't want to decide whether to make something or not based on whether the quantity is large or small. That's what makes Japanese manufacturing boring."
Furthermore, when I told them that the fabric is dyed one roll at a time,
"There are many places that will do it for just one bolt. It shows the trust they have built. It's an interesting fabric, and I'm looking forward to it!"
⬆︎This is a scene from the Nassen dyeing process. This large table is 25 meters long, and for each pattern, two tables are used to dye approximately 46 meters of cloth. 46 meters is called one tan.
Wow, I was so moved. It was so cool I was stunned.
Meeting these creators is truly a treasure.
Our contact person, Mr. K, was really kind and had a funny personality (quite funny!), generously sharing his experiences and ideas with us.
Wow, a new door has opened! Shopee and I were overjoyed at that moment.
Oh yes, speaking of the door opening, I noticed something.
Start planning even before deciding on a sewing destination . Rather than planning once you've decided on a sewing destination, moving forward while you're at it will surely open up new possibilities.
I wrote this in the hope that it might be helpful for those who want to try something new.
5. From planning to sample production
The skirt has a lining to prevent it from being see-through. I had no idea there were so many different types of linings. I was shocked at the sheer number of sample books.
●I wonder if a soft or stiff elastic waistband is better.
●I wonder if this is the right color for the waist string. Since the actual fabric hadn't been dyed yet, I narrowed my eyes (!) and decided while imagining the color.
●For the shirt buttons, we chose shell buttons with a matte texture! When shiny shell buttons are given a poppy finish, they become matte.
⬆︎There are several sample books just for the matte lining that I requested and ordered.
One day, when I visited the company, I got a big surprise! The sample that was supposed to be unfinished was actually finished! I was so excited to hear that it had finally been completed just an hour before the meeting! I broke out into a sweat in an instant. I was so excited!
Afterwards, I called out to my cousin's wife, Ms. N, who had come to the pop-up, saying, "Hey, hey! I have a favor to ask you!" and had Ms. N and her friend try on the samples.
⬆︎I've been so busy with everything that I can't even take any decent photos! I really owe it all to everyone's help every time. Thank you so much!
6. Fix it and go live
When I tried on the sample shirt, I felt it was difficult to move my arms.
I wonder how to fix this, should I just make the sleeves 1cm thicker?
⬆︎I noticed a certain area bothering me, so I drew an arrow at that point and consulted with the pattern maker, who adjusted it so that I could move my arms more easily.
⬆︎I was impressed by the beautiful stitching on both the buttonholes and the back.
For the skirt, the width of the elastic waistband has been reduced by 5 mm.
(Inner voice: Ah, but maybe 5mm would be fine, or maybe 1cm? What should I do?)
Once the actual fabric is dyed, all that's left is sewing! Or so you'd think, but there are many twists and turns.
K-san, the sewing client, said, "Um, the fabric has arrived, but it's not wide enough."
Wh, what?! What does that mean?!
K-san: "The fabric is supposed to be 110cm wide, but fabric can get a little distorted depending on how tightly it's pulled. When it comes to textile printing, it's done by hand, so distortion is easy to happen. If I adjust the grain at right angles, the width is 108-109cm depending on the location. Does that make sense?"
I understand. I understand. (Do you all understand the situation??)
I made a pattern that was the full width of the fabric. So it won't fit...
⬆︎This is the situation. I had to look twice.
Mr. K: "Well, I thought that might happen. It's a common thing with textile printing."
A veteran's statement (tears)!
Mr. K: "This time we'll make adjustments on-site and do our best. From now on, let's make patterns that are about 90% of the fabric width."
Kyaaaah, what a veteran says (tears)!!
Mr. K, who always smiles and helps us find a solution, can I call you KAMI-sama?
After many twists and turns (there are too many details to write about), the shirt and skirt were finally completed.
Yay!! I did it!!
7. And the next episode preview
This is how AMONG's new shirt and skirt turned out.
The beautiful colors and silhouettes make you exclaim, "Wow, it's so light and easy to wear!" and "So cute!" the moment you put it on.
In addition to the wonderful connections we made with our sewing clients, we also had a lot of the power of Ms. K, who always solved any problems with a smile!
This is the "Kanna Pattern_Love" long skirt . A straw hat and sandals give it a resort feel! (Height: 158cm)
I was reminded once again that it takes the skills of many artisans to make a single piece of clothing. From cutting and sewing to pressing (ironing) it all requires artisanal skill. It's impossible to imitate. Even the back is beautifully finished, and I'm captivated by it.
Thank you again!!
Next time, we'll introduce the details and special features of each product. Please look forward to the second part. See you! (Kurisawa)
